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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Liberty Bar Restaurant Review: Liberty Bar lists to the left, physically, and its clientele tends toward the same slant politically. But the cuisine is, if anything, conservative in its most basic meaning: its Texas and Mexican roots show through at almost every turn. Once a beer-soaked honkytonk, today's Liberty enjoys a reputation as a hangout for the high-toned and ultra-arty alike, and as a kitchen that's honest and unpretentious---in a pretentious sort of way. We have become almost addicted to the goat cheese with chile morita and piloncillo sauce over the years, but plates such as the hoja santa-wrapped chicken breast are equally endearing. Pot roast, lamb burgers and grilled-cheese sandwiches smeared inside with just enough sultry chile sauce typify the kitchen's approach to a kind of challenging comfort food. Fancier fare includes the grilled portobello mushroom served with smoked Gouda and saffron aïoli on Liberty's justly famed house-made bread. The noise level can be intense, you're likely to have to wait for a table at peak times (though a timely telephone call can put you on the wait list), and service can sometimes be perfunctory; but the generally congenial atmosphere and a quirky but rewarding wine list salve most slights. So will a slice of Virginia Green's county fair-style chocolate cake, the Platonic ideal of all things baked.