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Mateo's Cocina Latina Restaurant Review: Mateo Granados, who has helmed upscale restaurant kitchens, a tamale tent at the Santa Rosa farmers market, and mobile stoves at winery pop-up dinners, fulfills a dream with this restaurant. Cocina Latina is his emergent spin on Mexican cuisine, an ode to his Yucatán roots, and devoted to local sustainably raised meats, dairy and produce. The inviting dining room sports mustard yellow walls, warm woods and colored Christmas lights in open rafters. Diners may opt to sit at the stretchy L-shaped tequila and mezcal bar or on the unexpectedly ample back patio. Ignite with a Caliente margarita, muddled with radish, cilantro and Serrano chili accompanied by tortilla cones, tucked into drilled-out barrel staves, stuffed with crab and kumquat guacamole or black bean purée with house-made chorizo. Or try the ceviche du jour, perhaps thinly sliced halibut with Mandarins and cured radishes, or straight-up olive oil guac and crackers speckled with sea salt and pumpkin seed dust. Wide-bodied tamales and cinnamony lamb carne asada tacos with cured onions and cabbage make for succulent small plates. Entrées include slow-roasted pork marinated in annatto seed, whole fried fish with salsa, and mussels with pork chorizo and tomato-habanero sauce. Habaneros are not in short supply here; fearless signature sauces, definitely not for the meek, adorn tables and are bottled to-go for addicts.