THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Melange Restaurant Review
542 Lighthouse Ave. (Grand Ave.)
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Pacific Grove, CA 93950
831-333-0301
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Cuisine
Open
Lunch Wed.-Sat., Dinner Mon.-Sat.Features
- Romantic setting
- Reservations suggested
- Casual
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Cheery mustard-colored walls greet, large wooden tables and high-back chairs add rusticity, and chef-owner appeal lends warmth to this very unassuming corner of Lighthouse Avenue. Service gets the homespun touch, too: the chef’s fiancée, Dorothy, welcomes customers. Start with a complimentary “splash” of Charles de Fère and chef-owner David Frappiea’s festive amuse of the day. Forget bottled still or sparkling---Mélange's local water undergoes reverse osmosis for purification. Choose between two tasting menus (one a quick three-courser) or go à la carte and pair with your choice of wines in two- or six-ounce pours. Frappiea gingerly spices piping hot carrot and coriander soup. Translucent chunks of Maine lobster claw their way out of a hand roll, its wrapping a thin crêpe halfway dredged in a thick Cognac cream sauce; the murky tint somewhat takes away from the desirable contents of the role. His Hawaiian sea bass falls tenderly apart in a pool of warm broth---crispy skin on top seals in sweet juices, though the rice cake adds nothing to the dish awash with flavor and fragrance. Large shrimp crown a creamy risotto ratcheted up by Asagio cheese. You won’t find capricious squeezes of sauces, aggressive flavors or over garnishing on Frappiea's plates. Desserts are gracefully understated.
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