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Mustards Grill Restaurant Review: Owner Cindy Pawlcyn’s landmark roadhouse is as emblematic of Napa Valley as the spunky plant that brightens the vineyards. The cozy dining room, with worn-in dark wood wainscoting and a checked marble floor gently cracked, reflects a quarter century of love. But the menu keeps contemporary and seasonal, and melds Asian and other exotic touches with approachable mainstays. Start with extra crispy, tender calamari under a haystack of sweet curry-dressed slaw and arugula; fluffy corn mash tamales spooned onto husks with creamy tomatillo-avocado salsa; or an irresistible pile of thin onion rings, intertwined like a game of Barrel of Monkeys. Entrées from the smoker beckon, like dark-skinned tea-infused duck with sticky rice, and just-right hanger steak with sweet onion jam. Cherries balance a pair of wood-roasted chipotle-rubbed quail. Among the comforting desserts: mile-high lemon-lime pie and pillowy rice pudding with huckleberries. Close proximity seating creates a buzzing community, and it’s not unusual to partake in cross-table conversation and contemplation of dishes. The vibe feels relaxed in a put-the-day-behind-you way. Impressive new-world wine list, with fine by-the-glass selections.