| We have been to Hemingway's clean, well-lighted place, and it's called Neptune Oyster. The tiny spot, all whiteness and mirrors and stainless steel, beckons brightly on winter evenings and promises refreshing cool---complete with a window display of shucked oysters on ice---on summer afternoons. What's more, it delivers---effortlessly, it seems. Not only is the daily selection of raw shellfish impressive---there are a dozen or so varieties on offer at any given time---but the menu presents an exceptional assortment of creative seafood dishes, some Italian-inflected, others New England-based. Even in the wake of talented chef David Nevins’ departure, we’re fully confident owner Jeff Nace won’t want to change a thing in a kitchen that’s become synonymous with an eye-poppingly bold, lip-smackingly rich repertoire (fried oysters with pickled beef tongue, anyone?). |
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