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Nonna Restaurant Review: Chef Jobie Bailey cooks here and at the more ambitious DOC next door. But Nonna, which used to serve primarily simple Italian comfort food, has gone elaborate. You can't go wrong with most of the plates, and they adhere to the of-the-moment Portland standard of smallish portions designed for sharing. Try one of the raw seafood selections, such as scallop crudo or smoked sturgeon, and homemade charcuterie. Imaginatively prepared, seasonally changing vegetables may include zucchini crudo with almonds, herbs and sheep cheese or greens with sprouted barley, radishes and olive oil. For something heartier, try squid ink cavatelli with octopus, almonds and sugar snaps or beef rib-eye with panzanella salad, grilled beets and salsa verde. The wine list is limited, but there's a choice of interesting craft cocktails from the full bar. Desserts are subtly sweet --- think traditional olive oil cake and griddled bread pudding. Offerings at weekend brunch include an "improved" mimosa with rum and such atypical entrées as sprouted barley, chile, celery, cashews and yogurt; toast with duck egg, bacon, white beans and lovage; and a crispy halibut sandwich with red cabbage slaw and Calabrian chiles. Prefer to stick with eggs? Try the frittata with asparagus, zucchini and fava leaf pesto. A backyard patio is open during summer months.