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Nonna Restaurant Review: "Nonna" is Italian for grandmother, which means the simple, well-prepared dishes are just like grandma might make --- assuming she was up on current foodie trends. And with the open kitchen, you almost feel like a guest in Nonna's house. Soft lighting, fine woodwork, and a horseshoe-shaped bar curving through two rooms create a cozy atmosphere. Chef Jobie Bailey cooks here and at DOC next door, which emphasizes fine dining. You can't go wrong with most of the plates, which adhere to the of-the-moment Portland standard of smallish portions designed for sharing. Marinated olives are citrusy and bright, the bread toothsome, the Caesar salad a fine rendition of the classic. Seasonally changing vegetables may include grilled rapini or roasted Brussels sprouts. Manicotti is enhanced by homemade shells and a peppery, creamy ricotta filling. Grilled trout bathed in a lemon garlic sauce is a hit, as is smoked brisket with lentils. All the pastas feature straightforward but pungent sauces; for something totally different, try the squid and olive. The wine list is limited, but there's a choice of interesting craft cocktails from the full bar. Desserts are subtly sweet --- think traditional olive oil cake and griddled bread pudding. A backyard patio is open during the summer months.