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nopa Kitchen + Bar Restaurant Review: Penn Quarter’s nopa Kitchen + Bar is another venue in the Ashok Bajaj restaurant group. Executive chef Matt Kuhn (Ardeo+Bardeo) is a firm believer in experimental yet workable American cooking with a slight Italian overtone. He turns out such dishes as duck liver mousse, grilled octopus confit, and deviled eggs with a basil mousse as starters. Dinner entrées include Chilean sea bass with baby bok choy and farro and black quinoa risotto. He treats lunch and brunch fare with equal energy: burrata salad; Carolina Frogmore stew with soft-shell crabs; a Nopa burger with house-made cheese "whiz" and smoked bacon; and frittata rancheros with chorizo and queso fresco. The wine list is extensive, and adjacent to the dining room is a bar area where guests can enjoy signature cocktails. Desserts are outrageous, and it’s hard to imagine anything so delicate as the maple pecan sticky buns; alas, many of them focus on seasonal produce, so in the winter guests will never get to savor the small fried peach pies.