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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Old Hickory Grille Restaurant Review: An offshoot of the original barbecue restaurant in Burtonsville, Maryland, this location is under different management, so the accent has shifted from barbecue to New Orleans-style cooking. While the conversion to basically Southern cooking sounds intriguing, management mixes and matches flavors with the resulting menu that's as much eclectic American as it is Southern. That makes decisions complex: How about a Chinese chicken salad or a sturdy Italian pasta main course with a Southwestern starter? We hemmed and hawed, finally selecting the Southern classic, an oyster po'boy, but found it needed more oysters, less roll. The Southern-fried chicken, however, captures all the savory goodness this dish promises. If you stick to the Southern mode, end your meal with strawberry shortcake---the other choices are as eclectic as the rest of the menu.