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Osteria Il Sogno Restaurant Review: Andrew Weissman’s Il Sogno was the first restaurant to find a foothold in the Pearl Brewery development; now, competition abounds and slips in execution are less likely to be tolerated. Fortunately, the kitchen appears to be responding (there’s a talented chef de cuisine), the no-reservations policy has been scuttled, and drop-in seats can often still be scored at the counter facing the open kitchen. Starters of special interest include an inventive antipasto selection, available in three-dish and five-dish portions, from which seafood salads are especially rewarding. Entrée fish dishes such as the sweet pea risotto with shrimp and calamari are both unassuming and ethereal, while meats like the wood oven-roasted pork chop with apple-fennel salad are at once earthy and uptown. Pastas seem to have become a particular point of pride, with a seasonally-inspired fazzoletti with asparagus in a lemon cream sauce typical of the possibilities. Pizzas are also currently in the ascendency, with the aptly named Atomica (spicy tomato sauce, salami and capers) a special favorite. The savvy sommelier can be called upon to match a wine from the regionally based, all-Italian list to any of the above.