THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pacific Time

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pacific Time Restaurant Review:

None of the problems that were present at chef-owner Jonathan Eismann’s first Pacific Time (a terminally trendy interior with bad acoustics; a certain sameness of flavors in its Pacific Rim cuisine) exist at this, its reinvention. The décor is tastefully subdued. Prices are neighborhood-restaurant-level (with added savings from a sophisticated, eco-friendly water filtration system; no pricy bottled water’s served here, or needed). And the menu’s main issue is too many irresistible choices. Along with old Pacific Time classics like ginger scallion pancake (with Key West shrimp, shiitakes and a light Champagne sauce) there are many new options reflecting Mediterranean as well as Pacific Rim influences. These include both regionally distinct dishes (butter-grilled asparagus with egg Milanese, prosciutto, preserved lemon and artisan olive oil; soft shell crab tempura on frisée with black bean vinaigrette) and fusion plates like crisp-crusted salt-and-pepper skate, featuring not just the expected (Asian lemon grass) but capers, haricots verts and a parsnip purée that puts the smoothest mashed potatoes to shame. In less skilled and subtle hands, the East-West mix could be a disaster, but Eismann’s creations are sheer inspiration. A thoughtful, nicely priced wine list (bottles start at around $22) is another plus.