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Panico's Restaurant Review: Panico’s is a refined establishment with a kitchen notable for a rock steady performance. The creative Italian fare offers starters such as broccoli rabe con salsiccia picante. Translation: bitter sautéed broccoli rabe with fiery Italian sausage, and incendiary cherry peppers smoothed with olive oil and garlic. Among the primi piatti, or “first plates” of pasta, risotto or gnocchi, is the fettuccine con salmone affumicato, a complex dish in colorful combination with smoked salmon, cherry tomatoes, broccoli and sweet peppers, finished with a touch of cream and a splash of white wine. Panico’s signature dish is a well crafted osso buco---a tender veal shin cooked in a sauce that changes daily. Desserts tempt but the shining star is strudel alle fragole, a pocket of phyllo filled with strawberries and mascarpone and ricotta cheeses, with vanilla gelato and caramel sauce served on the side. The wine cellar matches the fine fare, leaning heavily into Italy but with a good sampling from the world’s great wine-growing regions.