THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Principal

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Principal Restaurant Review:

Located on the ground of a former school where the co-owners’ mother served as principal, this chic restaurant on Hong Kong’s foodie-magnet Star Street keeps its interiors to the academic theme with plaid banquettes and private rooms named The Study and The Library. Wines are a global geography lesson with around 700 selections, from the expected to up and coming wineries in Slovenia and Turkey. Chef Jonay Armas arrived in Hong Kong with a distinct advantage over many of his ‘classmates,’ having cooked for local fans of the resort chain Amanresorts. His European-leaning dishes will remind no one of school cafeteria fare, but do demonstrate his cleverness in the kitchen, particularly seen in the free-range 63°C egg, cooked just one degree below its solidification point to quivering consistency, with cep mushrooms, artichoke heart and black summer truffle shavings. We also like the Ibérico suckling pig cooked for 12 hours until the meat falls off the bone, presented in a tart lemon purée with sautéed red endives in a pomegranate reduction. Armas’ seven-course Sunday brunch menu offers a rare opportunity in Hong Kong to spend most of the day focused entirely away from the office.