 This progressive neighborhood spot is all about quality without the pretense. A large rectangular bar anchors the 9,000-square-foot space, with booths galore and tasty bites from chef Jared Van Camp. His 48-minute slowly poached egg spills open over tender asparagus rimmed with lardons and Parmesan confetti. A four-cheese macaroni arrives steaming hot in a miniature cast iron pot. We also recommend the house-made charcuterie, in particular the mortadella. Duck wings, painted with piquant harissa sauce, find a cool companion with cucumber raita. For Van Camp’s version of the BLT, expect a confit of Berkshire pork belly and heirloom tomatoes. Pre-Prohibition drinks enliven the menu. Try the Remember Rosarito --- blanco tequila tamed by lemon and Averna, then infused with a smoky flamed-orange essence. The Pickle Back, made with Jameson and house-made pickle brine, is the most popular shot. Remember, it's a no frills, down-home bar --- the magic appears in the thoughtful food and creative cocktails.
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RESTAURANT AWARDS
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