Radius Restaurant Review: High ceilings, sealed and heated cement floors, and an overall minimalist décor emit an art gallery vibe from this casual restaurant, while refurbished schoolhouse chairs, a long curved bar, and simple dark-wood tables add the softness one experiences at a neighborhood café. In this homey-meets-chic atmosphere, executive chef Matt Kerley has created a menu with ingredients exclusively sourced from purveyors within a 100-mile radius (and thus the inspiration for its name). Standouts include a pork torchon touting a crust that gives way to tenderness, while a huckleberry gastrique provides a pleasant touch of tang and fragrance. Littleneck clams burst with a wide range of flavors thanks to hunks of crispy bacon and shredded cabbage swimming in a silky bacon-kimchi broth. But the showstopper is a lamb shank braised for six hours, served in a cast-iron pan and accompanied by braised pea tendrils, heirloom roasted potatoes and plump green peas. Desserts are surprisingly creative. Warm chocolate cake is spooned into the center of a cool strawberry soup, and small triangles of lemon curd tart are served with gumdrop-size dollops of meringue and topped with a chocolate praline crunch. An equally inspired wine list only features wineries within a 100-mile radius.
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