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The Restaurant at Madrona Manor Restaurant Review: Through the arch and up a narrow drive, Madrona Manor, queen of Victorian mansions, blushes in pale sunset pink as approaching visitors feel compelled to tuck their shirts back in and dab on lipstick. The inn can't help but exude grace. After a spritzer on the veranda surrounding lush gardens, or inside amid the precious vases, candlelit tables and chandeliers, you'll swear you're in a Southern dream. Anything but chef Jesse Mallgren's refined cuisine wouldn't do. He offers a for-the-table "Grand Dame" tasting menu as well as a "Carte Blanche" prix-fixe, both with optional wine pairings. The fact that the gardener gets equal billing on the menu with the chef speaks to his estate-grown, farm-fresh philosophy. Tempting supplemental splurges might include caviar and smoked duck gelée with crème fraiche, Japanese Wagyu, and the option of adding Alba white truffles to the estate squash risotto. No mere afterthought: ice cream hand "churned" tableside (i.e. made with liquid nitrogen). Conquer the imposing wine list or rely on customized pairings. Service is comfortable, not doting.