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The Restaurant at Madrona Manor Restaurant Review: Through the arch and up a narrow drive, Madrona Manor, queen of Victorian mansions, blushes in pale sunset pink as approaching visitors feel compelled to tuck their shirts back in and dab on lipstick. The inn can't help but exude grace. After a spritzer on the veranda surrounding lush gardens, or inside amid the vases and chandeliers, you'll swear you're in a Southern, not Sonoma, dream. Anything but chef Jesse Mallgren's refined cuisine wouldn't do. He offers a for-the-table "Grand Dame" tasting menu ($160, plus optional wine pairings) along with "The Carte Blanche" prix-fixe ($130, plus optional wine pairings). The fact that the gardener gets equal billing on the menu with the chef speaks to his estate-grown, farm-fresh philosophy. Begin with caviar and smoked duck gelee with crème fraiche. Other tempting supplemental splurges might include Japanese Wagyu and the option of adding Alba white truffles to the estate squash risotto. No mere afterthought: ice cream hand "churned" tableside (i.e. made with liquid nitrogen). Conquer the imposing wine list or rely on customized pairings. Service is comfortable, not doting.