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The Restaurant at Madrona Manor Restaurant Review: Through the arch and up a narrow drive, Madrona Manor, queen of Victorian mansions, blushes in pale sunset pink as approaching visitors feel compelled to tuck their shirts back in and dab on lipstick. The inn can’t help but exude grace. After a spritzer on the veranda surrounding lush gardens, or inside amid the vases and chandeliers, you’ll swear you’re in a Southern, not Sonoma, dream. Anything but chef Jesse Mallgren’s refined cuisine wouldn’t do. He offers fluctuating, for-the-table tasting menus (for example, “spring has arrived” or “oceanic”) along with à la cartes. The fact that the gardener gets equal billing on the menu with the chef speaks to his estate-grown, farm-fresh philosophy. Begin with a study in texture and taste by puncturing the dome of a “63 degree egg” over warm asparagus and tarragon to create seductive butter-less béarnaise. Intense, crispy house-cured pancetta and in-season fiddlehead ferns dress up chicken breast. Or, take on a trio of pan-seared squid ink gnocchi accompanying plump halibut. No mere afterthought: dredging crème anglaise from the dark depths of the Valrhona chocolate soufflé. Conquer the imposing wine list or rely on customized pairings. Service is comfortable, not doting.