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Root 174 Restaurant Review: Though small --- 36 seats inside, 15 outside --- Root 174 manages to touch all bases for what its dining customers might want. You can even order take-out. The kitchen’s philosophy adheres to goals of local, seasonal ingredient sourcing and sustainability, but, most important, the chef/owner’s engaging talent targets taste. The menu changes often and always includes vegan options. Dishes are lively --- crispy Brussels sprouts with bacon-black pepper jam; chilled beet and rhubarb soup with asparagus; smoked salmon sausage with fingerling potatoes, chard, onion marmalade and mustard cream. All, even condiments, is house-made. Homey desserts range from chocolate espresso cake and vegan carrot cake to chocolate mousse with shortbread and blood orange meringue. The bistro offers a tightly edited wine list of five whites, five reds and five sparkling, mostly focused on old-world labels.