 A warm design and hearty North Beach spirit mark this upscale neighborhood institution, where longtime regulars may remember the brassy local barkeep for whom the venue was named. Though classic, the atmosphere is hardly old-fashioned: divided among a heated outdoor sidewalk space, the lively bar area and a spacious, comfortable dining room with an exhibition kitchen, the broad trattoria feels classy, open, celebratory and modern. Chef Valentino Luchin crafts daily-changing, family-style antipasti and entrées layered with fresh, local ingredients, and enthusiastically employs the restaurant’s elegant hub of wood-fired ovens, grill and rotisserie for everything from pizzas to seafood to vegetables. Whole fish can be a treat here (the cuisine is meant to reflect the seaside region of Liguria), with some offerings fileted tableside, such as the whole petrale sole served on a brothy bed of white beans, fennel and bitter puntarella. Desserts are big and rich; wines hail predominantly from Italy, including many from the northern regions. Be advised: Prices are high, and servers can be difficult to hear or attract over the din of everyone’s good time. |
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Set the mood for love by reserving a table at one of the Best Romantic Restaurants in San Francisco, or view our list of Valentines Restaurants to find out which restaurants are offering unique menus just for February 14. Also, see who sets the standard for seductive dining across the country with our Top 10 Romantic Restaurants in the U.S. list.
