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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Roussillon Restaurant Review: Chef Dan Gill’s emphasis on seasonal cooking brings forth such dishes as summertime crab with mango, pink grapefruit, Champagne and coriander, or asparagus with morels, Parmesan and confit tomato. Wild sea bass comes with cauliflower, seaweed, dried grapes, clams and wild sorrel, again in summer; and roast venison with poached blackberries, crinkly cabbage and celeriac purée in the autumn. These are seductive pairings beautifully rendered. The original aim of providing top-class vegetarian dishes continues. Service is unmistakably French, meaning prompt and self-assured (they know exactly how and when to pitch it). The wine list is very good, concentrating on France (and you must try the Roussillon wines) but with a fine global list. Décor also uses that winning combination of a little bit of Provence, a hint of château, a touch of Paris, with a colour scheme of autumnal browns and tans, a stretch of hessian here and there, and some botanical prints. Set 3-course lunch, including half bottle of wine, £35; tasting lunch £58; tasting vegetarian lunch £48; six-course dinner £75; six-course vegetarian dinner £65.