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Ruth's Chris Steak House Restaurant Review: Steakhouses are springing up all over San Antonio of late, and though the late, feisty Ruth Fertel showed San Antonio how it should be done, her ghost apparently isn’t enough to keep wannabe pretenders to the crown entirely at bay. The atmosphere is still welcoming, to be sure, with the smell of beef in butter that greets one at the door undeniably seductive, and the service totally in tune. Seared ahi stands out as a starter, as does the Lucullan lump crab appetizer; it towers above the more complicated, but less successful, plate of veal osso buco ravioli. But no amount of sizzle can enliven a not-ready-for-Prime-time rib-eye---not if it lacks the luxe the price presupposes. Lyonnaise potatoes more than hold their own as a stalwart side, however, and they also partner well with the unexpectedly good veal chop with sweet and hot peppers. There’s a wine from the voluminous list to support any and all of the above---and trust that it will be properly presented. Perhaps a port to go with the chocolate chunk bread pudding?