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Ruth's Chris Steak House Restaurant Review: Steakhouses have opened all over San Antonio, and though the late, feisty Ruth Fertel showed the city how it should be done, it apparently isn’t enough to keep pretenders to the crown entirely at bay. The atmosphere is still welcoming, to be sure, with the smell of beef in butter that greets one at the door undeniably seductive, and the service totally in tune. Seared ahi and barbecue shrimp stand out as starters, as does the Lucullan lump crab appetizer; it towers above the more complicated, but less successful, plate of veal osso buco ravioli. But no amount of sizzle can enliven a not-ready-for-Prime-time rib-eye --- not if it lacks the luxury the price presupposes. Consider the less-pretentious petite filet instead. Though sides seem stuck in time, Lyonnaise potatoes more than hold their own, and they also partner well with the unexpectedly good lamb chop with fresh mint. There’s a wine from the voluminous list to support any and all of the above --- trust that it will be properly presented. Perhaps a port to go with the chocolate “Sin” cake?