: The accent at Steven Chan's spiffy spot is on Hong Kong, source of many of these dishes. An architect by training, Chan took over a languishing space and transformed it into a sophisticated interior that speaks, but does not scream, with an Asian accent. Mirrors and glass walls address Chan's interest in surface design. His interest continues to plating, if not cooking, the food. Little appetizers---dim sum---make up the Sunday lunch menu, but they also have another role to play in this upscale dining theater. As pre-dinner intrigue, they whet the appetite for the main dishes. Many are familiar, such as the shrimp-filled dumplings, to be dipped into a rather assertively seasoned sauce. Others are less so, such as the shrimp-stuffed eggplant, which is the star of the dim sum show. For main dishes, we fell in love with the Hong Kong-style cod in black bean sauce, a beautifully flavored tangle of textures and seasonings. Each entrée is paired with a wine from one of the most useful wine lists in any Atlanta Asian restaurant. For lunch patrons, a small space downstairs called Café Sampan offers noodle dishes, dim sum and other easy fare.

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