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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Restaurant Review: Forget any preconceived notions about Sansei being just a traditional Japanese restaurant. The phone number is 808-669-OCTO, as in octopus. The slogan? Home of the other red meat: ahi. Hip waiters with Spock sideburns chat with customers about unfiltered saké. A fat ceramic cat sits on the counter wearing dark sunglasses. Three sushi chefs roll their gourmet goods behind the bar. We like the seared Sonoma Valley foie gras nigiri sushi with carmelized Kula onions and unagi demi-glace. You also will find Japanese BLT sushi with crisp salmon skin and tomato, Asian rock shrimp over ginger-lime chili butter with cilantro pesto and panko-crusted ahi sashimi over soy-wasabi butter. Put these on the table, and customers yell and shout with joy. In fact, owner D.K. Kodama's cutting-edge cuisine and upbeat ambience make it planets apart from other Japanese restaurants here. It's youthful and alive, contemporary and fun. This is the perfect place to graze a number of appetizers, such as half lobster tail stuffed with spicy crab and masago and slow-roasted, black-tea duck with orange-ginger-soy vinaigrette (yin) and cabernet demi-glace (yang). If karaoke is your cup of tea, Sansei offers the laser variety on Thursday and Friday nights from 10 p.m. to closing.