THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Savoy 614

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Savoy 614 Restaurant Review:

When we first heard the buzz about a stylish new restaurant in cheesy Old Folsom, we were justifiably skeptical. We figured we were talking about either a cowboy-themed rib joint or some kind of treacly, paisley-and-flowers Victorian café. We were thrilled to be so wrong. With its concrete and wood-plank floors, multiple levels, dramatic lighting and wooden chairs that look like they were stolen from some elegantly decrepit South Carolina garden party, Savoy 614 has a sophisticated, of-the-moment feel to it. This blending of styles carries straight through to the cooking of chef David Feldman, alum of Twenty Eight, who offers a small but ever-changing menu of New American selections. On one recent night, he offered a long list of appetizers---including a shimmeringly fresh Oregon bay shrimp, poached salmon and scallop cocktail served with a sharply refreshing horseradish sauce and a wonderful mix of baby greens tossed with a light Gorgonzola-hazelnut vinaigrette---but only five entrées: a stuffed chicken breast, a New York steak, pan-seared salmon, grilled lamb, and a portobello mushroom served with roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus and a porcini-port buerre rouge. Among the entrées, the lamb was the real stand-out: thick slices of lamb circled the plate like the numbers on a clock face; in the middle sat a heavenly dollop of spring garlic risotto, a cheery bright green concoction that played beautifully against the earthy baby carrots and an intriguing Burgundy reduction.