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Savoy Grill Restaurant Review: After what must be the longest hotel refurbishment in history, the Savoy Grill is back, a much-loved British institution that delivers all the panache and sophistication anyone could hope for. The room holds comfortable banquettes, chandeliers, deep carpets, polished glass walls that look like rich burgundy lacquer and black-and-white photographs of past cinema stars. It’s all very Art Deco in a delightfully contrived way. But most importantly, what of the cooking? It’s under the direction of Gordon Ramsay, and head chef Stuart Gillies (who came from the now-defunct Boxwood Café). Ingredients are unashamedly British where possible, from carefully selected suppliers. Start with chilled courgette and mint soup with goat’s curd, or smoked salmon. There’s a large selection of fish and shellfish and a great grill section that runs from steaks to rare breed pork chop. Roasts include more classics: steak and onion pudding; Lancashire hot-pot, which should be accompanied by the likes of cauliflower cheese or purple sprouting broccoli. A very traditional daily special is offered from the lunch trolley that circles the room, roast saddle of lamb on Monday and beef Wellington on Wednesday, and rice pudding, burnt English cream (England’s answer to crème brûlée), or British cheeses may end the meal. The wine list is good but very pricey; service is charming.