* Click here for rating key
THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Shady Brady's Restaurant Review: HURRICANE KATRINA: this establishment is currently closed. For a New Orleans Travel Update as well as resources, information and help click here. Chef Christopher Brady and his wife, Liberty, have accomplished the nearly unimaginable: They have built a casual, smoked meat-centric restaurant north of Lake Pontchartrain (roughly 50 minutes from the center of New Orleans) that's good enough to warrant the drive. All of the barbecued meats are infused with vigorous, sometimes sweet but never cloying, smoke flavor. Brady seems to have a sixth sense for when to put out the fire, taking his ribs to the brink of over-smoking by cooking them for about six hours with mesquite and then finishing them over post oak on a natural wood grill. He even smokes his veal meatloaf, sealing it with a black, chewy crust and mopping it with a tomato-garlic sauce. There are a few seafood selections, too, but none excel like the meats, and the cochon de lait gumbo, do. This is the sort of cooking that tastes just right in a converted bakery with hardwood floors and tongue-and-groove walls painted mirliton green. Service is laid-back to a fault.