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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Shiso Restaurant Review: Some think of this intimate, two-room place as more lounge than restaurant. And indeed the interior's stylishly rustic décor, reminiscent of a Japanese country tea house, makes it an unusually relaxing place to hang out sipping some first-rate sakés (either straight or blended into a vast variety of saketinis). But while the menu is relatively limited, it would be a mistake to miss the elegant small plates and maki rolls, both of which demonstrate admirably restrained real creativity rather than volcano roll-type overkill. And everything comes already chef-flavored with homemade sauces, making a DIY dousing in Kikkoman unnecessary. Especially recommended are bite-size roulades of local whitefish plus jalapeño and goji berries, with blood orange-yuzu sauce and sea salt; anything featuring the subtly house-smoked salmon; and, if available, crisp-coated rock shrimp with chili sauce, served atop arugula.