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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Sonoma Restaurant Review: This hip hideaway looks more like a dreary 60s office building until you catch a glimpse of the dazzling neon light fixture in the entry. Upstairs, the massive plum-tinted dining room is anchored on each side by a huge bar and an even bigger stage that showcases Sonomas second love, live entertainment. Both local and national acts-like Tori Amos-have performed here. Chef-owner Kirk DeLoach has brought his Louisiana upbringing to bear on his worldly offerings that combines Southern crabcakes and garlic shrimp on jalapeno cornbread with the international gyoza. These lobster and pork dumplings are served with a sesame seaweed salad. Entrées are just as wonderfully bent. On the one hand, you can choose from oven-roasted lamb chops served with cheese grits or braised crackling pork shank with sweet potato torte and corn relish. There on the same page is coconut-crusted mahi mahi, in a light curry cream sauce, and chicken Napoleon, with grilled portobello mushrooms and asparagus on a bed of champagne risotto. These tantalizing flavors are carried over into the Sunday brunch that, on nice days, spills out onto the large second-story deck. Try the southern comfort of the Achafalaya omelette, with andouille sausage, crawfish, corn and black beans, or J.J.s omelette, with goat cheese and spinach.