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Steinhilber's Restaurant Review: Since 1939, this elegant yet cozy, family-operated bastion of seafood and classic American fare --- twice baked potato, anyone? --- hidden away amidst Southern pines in a residential neighborhood has seen countless birthdays, anniversaries, prom dates, and plain old special nights out. “Steiny’s shrimp” (fried jumbo fantail) is rightly legendary, but oysters Rockefeller and a traditional platter (baked or fried) of sea scallops, jumbo shrimp, fresh fish, calamari, oysters and lump crab cake hold their own. Boneless New York strip is 16 ounces of aged Prime Black Angus and the eight-ounce tenderloin medallion belts all-natural Harris Ranch beef with bacon. Old-school, for sure, but in a way, everything old is new again with vegetables picked fresh from the garden in season. And there’s even a vegetarian “chicken breast” made of vegetables, wheat and soy protein. Service is professional, befitting white tablecloths. While it closed during summer in days of yore (as if to show it was for locals, not tourists, in this resort city), it’s long been open year-round. A fireplace and warm wood paneling conjure romance in winter and the deck overlooking Lynnhaven River makes it perfect for summer.