Open late Fri.-Sat.
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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Sustain Restaurant + Bar Restaurant Review: While this casual-chic eatery is serious about its commitment to sustainable, artisan and local seasonal ingredients, it is not sanctimonious. Some of chef Alex Piñero's most satisfying dishes are unapologetically hedonistic comfort food creations. At weekend brunch (locals' favorite meal here), it's tempting to make a whole meal of glazed "sin-a-buns," though that means ignoring treats like "green eggs and ham" (eggs, porchetta, ricotta and pesto). Other staples that most diners can't, and shouldn't, ignore include beautifully burn-blistered pizzas, "wet fries" (smothered in bone marrow gravy), or bone marrow with oxtail marmalade, ciabatta and arugula. There are many healthful choices, too, including 50 Mile Salad (locally-made goat cheese plus sweet oven-roasted beets, heirloom tomatoes, and other pristine produce grown within a 50-mile radius). Deconstructed Key lime pie is refreshingly non-cloying, as are most of Sustain's creative cocktails; those who prefer wine will find few bargains but many interesting West Coast choices on the roughly 60-bottle list. One flaw: cooking is unpredictably inconsistent.