 Tony's Pizza Napoletana Restaurant Review: This cozy, classic spot at the high-traffic North Beach corner of Stockton and Union is more than a pizzeria, it's an International School of Pizza, and owner and Castro Valley native Tony Gemignani is more than a pizzaiolo --- he's a champion at the craft. The two-roomed restaurant is dark and casual, with spacious booths and a friendly full bar --- a good place for diners to snag a seat. No less than eight ovens are used for the pies, including a domed-top brick for Italian pizza; square brick ovens for American-style pies; a brick oven specifically for the thicker Sicilian-style; and a Neapolitan wood-burning oven. The results can be striking, especially Gemignani's sweet Neapolitan margherita that won the gold at the 2007 World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy. Ingredients are topnotch and locally sourced --- a rooftop garden supplies the fixings for some of the pies, and the restaurant even has an on-site beehive that contributes to the Honey Pie, a sweet and spicy pizza with fried caramelized onions, Calabrese and serrano peppers, all drizzled with honey. Seasonal specials should not be missed, and don't dismiss non-pizza dishes such as hearty meatballs smothered in bright sauce. An artisanal cocktail selection stands up to some of the most sophisticated bars in the city.
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