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Tujague's Restaurant Review: If a restaurant can be considered a local “institution,” Tujague’s, established in 1858, surely qualifies (only Antoine’s has operated continuously longer in New Orleans). That said, the food, ambience and service had become lackluster until the operation was passed from father to son. These days, the interior has been moderately spruced up while still retaining elements of the past, such as the old-time tile floor and traditional bistro chairs, and the food is more consistently prepared. Steaks are offered with a choice of five sauces, which are used a bit too generously; fish and seafood are complemented by one of four sauces, also ladled on a tad too heavily. If there is a standout on the menu, it’s the lump crab and wild mushroom gnocchi with wild mushroom sauce; but, there’s too much sauce. The majestic-looking, wooden bar, on the other hand, presents a distinctive experience that harkens to World War II days in atmosphere and operation. Tujague’s wine list is rather limited compared to those at some of its closest competitors in the French Quarter, but it covers the necessary bases for the dishes. Desserts are unimaginative, and include a slightly spongy, plain bread pudding and chocolate pecan pie, drenched in chocolate syrup.