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Umi Japanese Restaurant Restaurant Review: Umi marks no readily discernible changes to either the space or the menu basics after its years in business. Yet the dining experience retains a sense of drama and anticipation. The ascent to the restaurant requires scaling two steep flights of stairs, enhanced by murals of fish scales and waves, culminating in the majestic head of a sea dragon. Enter a serene L-shaped space, graced with fine materials and appealing design. Dining options include tatami or regular tables, but reserve for the pinnacle of pleasure --- a seat at the smart suspended concrete and stainless steel sushi bar. Here is command central for sushi maestro Mr. Shu, Tokyo-trained and a Nobu alum. Umi serves a full Japanese menu, including teriyaki and tempura --- but sushi and sashimi are the real stars. Order the ultimate omakase --- chef's choice ranging from $85 for seven courses to $130 for 11 courses, depending on the dishes served. You'll be guided through amazing flavors and textures, the freshest, best quality ingredients, and beautifully presented new-style preparations: steamed ginger-wrapped sea bass with portobello and shiitake mushrooms and garlic soy sauce; toro tartare with fresh sea urchin and Beluga caviar; black cod with miso; and Spanish mackerel sashimi topped with salmon, salmon roe and a cooked vegetable soy sauce. Specific dishes are offered only when the best ingredients are available. But count on Mr. Shu's passion for rare flavors, sip unfiltered saké, and smile.