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Umi Japanese Restaurant Restaurant Review: The notion that classics don't go out of style is applicable to Umi. The ascent to the Japanese restaurant requires scaling two flights of stairs, enhanced by murals of fish scales and waves, culminating in the majestic head of a sea dragon. Enter a serene L-shaped space, graced with appealing design. Dining options include tatami or regular tables, but reserve a seat at the concrete and stainless steel sushi bar. Here is command central for sushi maestro Mr. Shu, Tokyo-trained and a Nobu alum. Umi serves a full Japanese menu, including teriyaki and tempura, but sushi and sashimi are the real stars. Order the ultimate omakase, a chef's choice ranging from $90 for seven courses to $130 for 11 courses, depending on what is served. You'll be guided through assorted flavors and textures, quality ingredients and new-style preparations: toro tartare, the can't-miss rock shrimp tempura and black cod with miso. Specific dishes are offered only when the best ingredients are available.