: Back in the '80s, the Verdile family updated the restaurant’s dining room --- to evoke the '60s. Now, it has been refreshed once more, this time reflecting the present. Third-generation chef-owner Mike Verdile Jr. offers American-Italian dishes, served by tux-clad waitstaff to casually dressed patrons. Possibilities range from homemade pastas, house-made sausages, veal (the veal cutlet à la Verdile is best described as a wiener schnitzel reimagined by Edesia, Roman goddess of food) and fresh seafood. Beyond the usual Parms, there are clever dishes such as fresh "verghetti," Asian-style spaghetti tossed with sautéed salmon and asparagus in a basil-tomato sauce. House-made carrot cake leads a short dessert list. Fifteen wines by the glass are available from a small, reasonably priced selection.

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