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Vij's Restaurant Review: Vij’s kitchen is admirably consistent, and arriving early (5 p.m.) is highly recommended, due to the restaurant’s no-reservation policy. The décor is minimalist and casual: coal black walls and East Indian lanterns allow the food to take center stage. Gracious and graceful, Vikram Vij offers each guest a glass of chai and appetizers in the lounge before reviewing the seasonal menu he and his wife, Meeru Dhalwala, compose and refresh every three months. When it comes to blending spices, she has the equivalent of a winemaker’s nose, and needs only a whiff from a pot to know whether a dish will tantalize or not. Before dinner, consider sipping a glass of Vij’s refreshing ginger-and-lemon drink. Then begin your meal with tasty spoonfuls of Dungeness crab starring coconut and cilantro mixed with candied beets. Count on an aromatic curry special, such as the signature lamb popsicles in a spicy fenugreek cream sauce, or a paneer saag with Punjabi lentils and pliable chapatti. Don't be surprised to see roasted crickets on the menu --- Dhalwala has been known to garnish pizza and paratha with the high-in-protein crunchy creatures. One look at the wine list Vij has designed to complement the Indian flavors and you'll know it's the creation of a trained sommelier. Tightly focused with just five whites and five reds, all are available by the glass or bottle.