Since 1969, restaurant, hotel, travel & other witty reviews by a handpicked, worldwide team of discerning professionals—and your views, too.


18450 Mack Ave. (Moross Ave.) Send to Phone

Dinner Tues.-Sat.

* Click here for rating key

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Vintage Bistro Restaurant Review

: A true bistro, with monsieur in the kitchen and madame in the dining room, this charming little place almost seems to hide away. There is no sign, only a discreetly lettered awning to mark the spot, a small brick building with diamond-paned windows and wood-and-plaster accents. The menu is completely à la carte, and includes both small dishes such as duck confit with honey-almond glaze; smoked salmon with whole-grain mustard; and fried oysters on horseradish cream sauce. Main dishes are rack of lamb with basil mashed potatoes; filet mignon on wilted spinach with roasted garlic sauce; and roasted pheasant with a goat cheese and pepper crêpe. There is usually a choice of three soups, and the salads, ranging from Caesar to Belgian endive and watercress, are lovely. A number of wines are available by the glass. A succession of booths and tables covered in blue-and-white checked bistro cloths seat just 50, with appropriate background music, artwork and posters to add to the French sensibility. Chef-proprietor Jon-Louis Seavitt changes the menu three or four times a year, but it is never a wholesale overhaul. Certain dishes remain, including one he and his wife, Gloria, have served from day one: ground sirloin with grilled bananas and horseradish cream sauce. Turkish apple strudel with raisin compote and fresh fruit cobbler are among four fresh desserts.


GAYOT's Annual Restaurant Awards honor America's best chefs, as well as promising newcomers and a top restaurateur.