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West Restaurant Review: Sit at the cherry wood-and-marble bar, sip a cocktail opposite the ceiling-high “wall of wine," and then glimpse diners’ plates reflected in the wavy sculpture. Chef Quang Dang's sophisticated menu may feature first courses of diver-caught scallops with celeriac, caramelized onions and maple jelly, and a biodynamic risotto with butternut squash, almonds, sage and black truffle. His main courses are equally inventive: albacore tuna seared rare with crispy honey mussels, and saké miso emulsion; braised bison short ribs with couscous and Swiss chard napped with a sweet chili emulsion; and double-stuffed ravioli filled with mushrooms, spinach and truffles, and topped with chive butter sauce. There are three eclectic five- and seven-course Sea, Land and Vegetarian tasting menus focused around top seasonal ingredients, with wine pairings. “Sea” courses could be lightly charred Langley organic trout or line-caught lingcod; among “Land” offerings, one might encounter twice-cooked foie gras with Agassiz hazelnuts or Thiessen Farm quail. Vegetarians receive the royal treatment with tomato gin soup, Yukon gold potato gnocchi with Parmesan and wild mushrooms. Pastry chef Rhonda Viani’s chocolate tasting stars a chocolate cornmeal cake with butterscotch sauce. An early (before 6 p.m.) prix-fixe menu is a steal at $46. The wine list focuses on boutique wineries, both old- and new-world. Service is seamless.