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Will’s Fargo Steakhouse + Bar Restaurant Review: In 2006, nearby Bernardus independently acquired Will’s; Cal Stamenov, chef of both properties, came with the deal and oversees the operations. One of his moves was to deploy French chef Jerome Viel to helm the kitchen. The roadhouse vibe is unmistakable, with saloon-style bar and parlor dressed up in red velveteen. Portions are plentiful, too. Order an entrée and indulge in the fine print: “all dinners include your choice of soup or salad, baked potato, French fries, twice-baked potato or basmati and wild rice.” Beef still reigns, but ample marquee space is given to fresh fish and refined country cuisine like grilled quail and pan-seared veal sweetbreads. Organic vegetables come from Earthbound Farm. All selections are cleverly prepared to appease the loyal locals; at the same time, Viel’s subtle hand plays to the more sophisticated palate. Dessert is worth a trip by itself for one of the best apple galettes outside of Brittany.