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Ze Mean Bean Restaurant Review: Slavic food has a special ability to banish winter doldrums and stir conviviality. And how lucky we are that such dishes as sour cream-lavished borscht, plump pierogies and cabbage rolls, potato pancakes with homemade applesauce, and spätzle with braised cabbage and wild mushrooms are as close as Fells Point. This congenial coffeehouse (hence the “bean”) features a seasonal menu that also offers non-Slavic specialties, like rosemary-pesto lamb chops and shrimp and scallop risotto. But it's the taste of Eastern Europe and the affable vibe of this storefront café, cozily kitted out in stenciled high-back chairs and mismatched tables, which keep us coming back for more. Check out the prix-fixe dinners on Tuesdays, or check in on weekends for a fine brunch and live jazz.