437 Rush

437 Rush Restaurant Review:

This relatively fail-safe Phil Stefani restaurant (think Tuscany) is several degrees removed from traditional Italian. Steaks and seafood are the thrust of the menu, which waffles between raw bar selections, Prime rib-eye and Dover sole as well as veal chops and farm-raised salmon. Meanwhile, pappardelle gets tossed with a house-made sausage ragù and goat milk ricotta, while a pan-roasted filet appears alongside glazed asparagus, apple wood-smoked bacon and veal marrow-Amarone reduction. Desserts may present a glum situation --- tasteless ricotta cheesecake and an almond-thyme tart that doesn’t fare much better. Service is pleasant and speedy. The atmosphere is warm, with mahogany floors, tile and stainless steel details. Stay away from a seat too close to the bar if you want to hear yourself think.