All'Acqua

All'Acqua Restaurant Review:

All’Acqua is from the same folks behind Silver Lake's Barbrix, and this lively Italian spot in Atwater Village fills the neighborhood’s need for a chic, casually upscale haunt. The former Acapulco space offers ironic echoes, while the high-beamed ceiling, Edison lights glowing off metal pipe chandeliers, and bustling bar give modern touches to the airy room. Stop at the bar for antipasti or a wood-fired pizza and a glass from the beguiling Cal/Italian wine list --- we found the Billhook white blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne very pleasant. A standout starter is the creamy burrata bruschetta, brightened with bottarga, chilies and mint. Neapolitan-style pies grace nearly every table, with their blistered and chewy crust and toppings that include nettles, pork belly and littleneck clams. Our pick is the savory Maiale with scamorza cheese, fennel pork sausage and fennel pollen. The market-driven menu spotlights house-made pastas; we liked the ricotta gnocchi, soaking up oxtail ragù, but found the paccheri with short rib and porcini a bit bland. Bigger plates range from a whole grilled branzino to a dry-aged rib-eye. It’s hard to go wrong with a limoncello budino for dessert.