THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bonanos Peruvian Restaurant
100 N. Ashwood Ave. (Thompson Blvd.) 
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: Buried in a strip mall and known for its grilled chicken, Bonanos could easily be overlooked. Yes, chef/owner Dante Balarezo’s pollo a la brasa is noteworthy: crispy-skinned yet juicy inside, flavored by a secret marinade and the ever-present Peruvian aji. But more storied Peruvian dishes do just as well as the country’s street food favorites. A ceviche appetizer arrives as it would at a restaurant on the coast of Lima: chunks of fresh, local fish cooked just beyond the point of raw by sweetly acidic lime juice, served with salty corn nuts, Peruvian sweet potatoes and a tumbleweed of thinly sliced red onions. An apparently simple saltado de carne --- tender strips of filet mignon sautéed with onions and tomato --- gets a kick from Peruvian chilies and spices. Bold flavors and authentic dishes make up for the location, and a daily lunch buffet offers first-rate value. |
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More than just a review of the wine itself
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