: Contemporary elegance reigns in a two-tiered dining room awash in amber light and rimmed with high-backed booths covered in rich, jewel-toned fabrics. We prefer a front row seat in the raised gallery, which couples an illusion of privacy with a panoramic view that takes in the lounge with its copper-topped bar and the peek-a-boo kitchen. A terrazzo path and a curvy, wrought-iron railing separates the more restless denizens of the bar from the sedate patrons in the dining room. A stylish clientele sups here, many of them willing followers of acclaimed chef-owner Tamara Murphy who rose to fame at Campagne. At Brasa, Murphy’s repertoire is rooted in the robust, earthy flavors of the Mediterranean. She does much of the cooking over open fire (brasa is Portuguese for live coals). We are repeatedly knocked out by the carpaccio with arugula and Parmesan Reggiano that is lovingly drizzled with earthy, aromatic white truffle oil. (This dish is served on a chilled plate and we suggest you allow it to come up to room temperature before diving in.) Scallops reach their apogee when seared to surround a chive potato pancake topped with a fried quail’s egg. The house signature dish is the suckling pig, accompanied by chorizo and pickled onions. For afters, try profiteroles or the Spanish doughnuts. From the bar menu, available until 2 a.m., we’re fond of pissaladière with mussels and the steak frites; share a few snacks and linger over a bottle from the wine list compiled with wit and knowledge by co-owner and general manager Bryan Hill.

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