THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Canteen

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Canteen Restaurant Review:

Canteen carries the imprint of its diner past: a long counter commands one side of the narrow storefront while a line of blue booths runs down the other. It's a small space, but as it turns out, it’s the perfect environment for chef Dennis Leary. The ever-changing dinner menu is reliably ambitious. Leary crafts thoughtful courses like a green garlic soup with spoonfuls of pearl barley, beef tongue and ribbons of poached egg; oyster mushroom clafoutis with dried tomato, walnuts and curry is both savory and delicate. Desserts like lemon croquettes with hazelnut sauce feel homey, but the vanilla soufflé (ordered at the start of your meal) is a heady, cloud-like delight. The compact wine list features well-chosen, esoteric selections.