: Time spent travelling to the culinary hotbeds of the world has added to chef Dominique Theval’s expertise behind a stove. Though having spent most of his time in Europe, chef Theval ended up in Los Angeles and has since opened his own restaurant. The brightly lit, sophisticated dining room --- with tables snugly spaced along a banquette --- is cozy, albeit compact, while an enclosed patio has a few additional tables. Portions, on the other hand, are generous, and prices more than affordable. Homemade chicken liver pâté is unctuous, puréed into a creamy spread. Lamb sausage has the fiery flavor of harissa, subdued by the sweet bed of quinoa, raisins, almonds and honey on which it sits. As for larger plates, risotto is slightly gummy, but cooked with a healthy portion of oyster, shiitake and morel mushrooms. Pan-seared sole is a touch bland, but short ribs deliver, fork tender with a reduced sauce of Pinot Noir and mashed potatoes that seem to hold more butter than potato. Dessert choices are straightforward, with the likes of chocolate mousse, passion fruit crème brûlée and a citrusy lemon tart. The wine list is brief, but has enough options to pair with dinner.

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