Welcome to GAYOT’s Highest Rating | Gabriel Kreuther, New York
Impeccable dinner at Gabriel Kreuther
New York, NY, November 2022
• GAYOT’s Rating: 19/20
• Cuisine: French
• Open: Lunch Thurs.-Fri. 12 p.m.-1:45 p.m.; Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
• Gabriel Kreuter is on GAYOT’s:
– 2016 Best New Restaurants in the U.S.
– 2022 Restaurant Awards, Memorable Dinners of 2022
– Best French Restaurants in the U.S.A.
– Best NY Best Restaurants
– Best NY Business Dining Restaurants
– Best NY Chef’s Table Restaurants
– Best NY Romantic Restaurants
– Best NY Special Occasion Restaurants
– Best NY Wine List Restaurants.
After all these years, his own restaurant
Here is how the story goes: chef Gabriel Kreuther hails from Alsace, France. Before coming to America, he worked in Germany, France and Switzerland. When he arrived in New York, he sharpened his knives at La Caravelle, Jean-Georges, Atelier in The Ritz-Carlton and The Modern. In 2015, Kreuther made a giant leap and opened his own restaurant, and not a small one, with the goal of being an haute cuisine establishment. After having one of the longest dinners I ever sat at (I arrived at 8:15 p.m. and left at 2:20 a.m.), I can attest to a success story.
I will give it right away: chef Kreuther just earned GAYOT’s highest rating of 19/20. The entire experience is what haute gastronomy should be about:
– a grand décor. Here, many elements are a reminder of Kreuther’s birthplace: the storks (a symbol of Alsace), the wood beams, the lights in the lounge being the same as in the streets of his city;
– a très impressive wine list, with a strong emphasis on French wines, carrying over 1,800 labels;
– dishware, silverware and glassware that almost make you dizzy. Most of them are handmade just for the restaurant. I wish I had space in my kitchen to store so many different and beautiful pieces;
– ultra-professional service at all positions;
– and, last but not least, actually the most important, la cuisine, not the kitchen but the cooking — it is the same word en français.
When you get better and better
Over the years, Kreuther has perfected his techniques and style. His culinary vision and relentless work made him enter the pinnacle of gastronomy. Every dish, including the breads, is a testimony to his talent, le point d’orgue (the climax) being the Sturgeon & Sauerkraut Tart, a sabayon and sauerkraut layered on puffed pastry, topped with Imperial Osetra caviar served under a cloche keeping applewood smoke until it is released at your table (see video below). I have to add that the sauerkraut itself is the best one I have ever eaten. It is one of those dishes you dream of.
Elegance and precision create beautiful plates and flavors for the palate. The foie gras terrine is paired with banana pain d’épices and Riesling gelée. The leek and green onion biscuit stuffed with Royal Kaluga caviar and lemon-parsley butter produces well balanced bites. Take time to savor the delicate Smoked Tomato Consommé en Gelée. Bottarga is always a welcome ingredient, found here on top of Housemade Squid Ink Orecchiette. The duck breast is aged two weeks, hay-smoked and seasoned with a summer sage brown butter poured at the table. For me, a meal like this calls for cheese. An intriguing selection comes on a rolling cart. After two palate cleansers, a Fromage Blanc Tart and Golden Kiwi Givré with a pear Tatin were the final act. The encore came under the form of Kreuther’s handcrafted chocolates; chocolate lovers will be in total bliss.