THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Il Covo

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Il Covo Restaurant Review:

Translated from Italian, Il Covo means “the lair.” Replacing longtime celebrity favorite Orso, it was conceived by restaurateur and bar impresario Sean MacPherson (L.A.’s Roger Room, New York’s Waverly Inn). Design-wise, the interior is indeed lair-like, sort of a gothic motif meets Moulin Rouge. Dark booths are perfect for privacy, though the patio has a romantic conservatory feel. On a cool night, we suggest the table in front of the fireplace. But it’s not all about looks; the food and spirits are taken seriously, too. Start with one of six specialty cocktails --- all feature at least one traditional Italian ingredient; similarly, the by-the-glass wine list highlights regional varietals from Italy. For appetizers, the tender roasted octopus is redolent of smoke and pairs well with the yellow sungold beans and salsa verde. Risotto, often served too soupy or too sticky at lesser restaurants, is spot-on; morel mushrooms contribute earthiness, while the asparagus adds a nice snap. Squid ink tonnarelli comes with fresh Dungeness crab, toasty breadcrumbs and spicy Calabrian chili. The wood-roasted short rib, which has become a signature entrée, balances bold flavors, thanks to a sprinkling of horseradish. The giant bone served with it really has a “wow” effect.