THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Provecho

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Provecho Restaurant Review:

A lively raw bar offers ceviche theater in this spacious, modern Mexican spot, which incorporates tones of black, grey and mahogany; Italian bubble chandeliers; and a glass waterfall framing the open kitchen. Despite its sophisticated elegance, it’s still hard to shake the corporate feel, offset by a more or less corporate crowd. Chef-owner Gabriel Morales, formerly of Republic, offers inventive, contemporary Mexican fare and a dazzling array of artisan, boutique tequilas. He pulls a sort of reverse-Matsuhisa, playing Latin and Asian flavors off each other in a haute ceviche menu that’s hit-and-miss: charred rare Australian lobster sashimi is fresh and pretty with ruby grapefruit; mesquite-grilled octopus is a nice palette for kumquat habanero salsa; and silky halibut with sherry vinegar is overwhelmed by its luxe black truffle and red onion escabeche. Entrées, like a spiced and simmered pork al pastor, or tender chicken with red mole, are duly requisite. Morales’ imagination invests itself best in small-plate gems like chile-rubbed lamb crudo with achiote chocolate and pink sea salt, and the chorizo-stuffed quail with pumpkin, or coffee-crusted foie gras parfait with tomato jalapeño jam. The latter is beautifully complemented by some of the finer sipping tequilas, like an El Gran Viejo anejo that sings melodiously with a hint of caramel and bourbon.