: Blink and you'll miss Michael Carlson's contemporary, minimal (some would say barren) BYO storefront. In spite of --- or maybe it's because of --- the vibe, tables, which are waited on by chefs, are hard to come by. You must call ahead and make reservations --- they're required. The seasonal tasting menu ($130) is filled with surprises from chef/proprietor Michael Carlson. Memorable bites may include quail egg ravioli or an oyster encased in a 7 Up soda sphere. For dessert, perhaps you may find a take on the classic childhood snack "ants on a log" with celery purée, peanut butter gelatin, raisin ice cream and maple syrup. Our problem isn't with the tricked-out food, though. It lies with the service, which can be flippant and unwelcoming. If you are comfortable with the "you’re-lucky-to-be-here" approach, however, you'll be amply rewarded with an inventive, off-kilter meal.

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