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23 Hoyt Restaurant Review: Situated in a contemporary bi-level space that's a bit cavernous, 23 Hoyt boasts big windows that let in lots of light and 23rd Avenue energy. Chef Chris Carriker transforms American favorites with high-end ingredients and attention to detail. Look for cauliflower panna cotta with trout roe; a salad of frisée, celery root, pomegranate and pecorino cheese; and penne with elk ragù. The knock-out burger features a thick beef patty, Gruyère, pickles, aïoli and bacon on a rosemary bun with the option of adding a fried egg or foie gras. For dessert, consider the warm donut holes with salted caramel. The bar serves traditional and creative cocktails, a nice assortment of wines by the glass, and several microbrews on tap. Happy hour may be enjoyed at outdoor tables. Our recommendation is to pair a craft cocktail or a house wine with small plates like the fried beets, hand-cut fries with aïoli or pimento cheese on house-made crackers. Sunday brunch offers well-turned-out standards and more inventive dishes such as braised brisket hash; an omelet with duck confit, shallots, kale and Taleggio cheese; and pear coffee cake. Be sure to order the $2 mimosas.