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23 Hoyt Restaurant Review: This contemporary bi-level space in the 23rd Avenue shopping area has a stylish bar and crisp design, and after multiple changes of owners, chefs and orientation, it seems to have found its essence. The local, seasonal menu transforms American favorites with high-end ingredients and attention to detail. Try the steamed mussels with apples, fennel, shallots, herbs and white wine, or the salmon with greens, onions and Meyer lemon. The burger featuring a thick beef patty, Gruyère, house pickles, aïoli and bacon on a rosemary bun (with the option of adding a fried egg or foie gras) is one of the better preparations in town. The bar serves traditional and creative cocktails, a nice assortment of wines by the glass, and has several microbrews on tap. Happy hour offers a chance to pair craft cocktails or a house wine with small plates such as a Bibb lettuce salad or chorizo with pickled zucchini. Sweet and salty chocolate chip cookies, perhaps with a scoop of house-made ice cream, provide an ideal dessert. Sunday brunch offers well-turned-out standards such as biscuits and gravy, Belgian waffles and eggs Benedict, along with $2 mimosas.