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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Aaron's Atop the Ala Moana Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED You take an express elevator to Honolulu’s best top-of-a-building restaurant. Perched on the 36th floor of the Ala Moana Hotel, Aaron’s serves up spectacular views---request a sunset vista looking out on the Pacific, or a green mountain scene and twinkling city lights. The restaurant feels like a covered balcony suspended over the city. All too often rooms with a view come with flabby cooking, but young chef Danny Morioka, a Kauai native who came from A Pacific Café, has put together a menu that straddles the line between Hawaii Regional innovation (steamed onaga in a soy-nori vinaigrette) and comfortingly staid (grilled rack of lamb, steak) that meets the demands of the diverse clientele that ranges from high-rolling Japanese visitors to locals who know their food. Raw oysters (maybe briny Miyagis from Fanny Bay) get a sprightly lilikoi-thyme mignonette and a side of ahi tartare; seared scallops in a citrusy sauce of lemon, Chardonnay and Parmesan top an earthy ragoût of asparagus and mushroom. Sometimes the kitchen still needs to work on its balancing act: A maki roll of tempura ahi, whose look earns it the name tiger eye, is all visuals and little flavor; the accompanying Chinese mustard sauce puzzlingly mild, while a special of opakapaka crusted in sesame and allspice was limp and overcooked, crying out for textural contrast. An energetic, knowledgeable staff makes sure your water glass is always topped off, and makes the kitschy flaming tableside desserts. Most impressive may be the wine list---the 1,500 bottle selection includes a reserve list with gems like a 1985 Opus One ($350; it’s popular with tourists) and a 1985 Château Margaux ($475). Moodily lit Aaron’s is done up in tones of green, blue and copper---you’ll look good on your big night out. Have a reason to celebrate? The glass-enclosed, 1,500-bottle wine cellar also serves as a private dining room.