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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Abokado Restaurant Review: Deep-fried shiso leaf “nachos” topped with raw spicy tuna, tobiko, and other Asian ingredients? The Viva, a sushi roll that starts with standard Japanese stuff (spicy tuna, cucumber), adds typical Latin sabor (jalapeño, cilantro, guacamole), and wraps it all in a flour tortilla? Miami hasn’t initiated too many food firsts, but this Japanese/Pan-Latin place breaks the pattern. Abokado features fusion starters, diced ceviches and strip-cut tiraditos, elaborate salads and sushi. But diners with bigger appetites will also find a shortlist of entrées (like beef tenderloin with yucca croquette, smoke oil and Nikkei sauce), though these are frankly less intriguing than the small plates. Some items in all categories pair ingredients that should not get any closer to each other than the distance specified in a typical restraining order. But such combinations, such as sushi featuring tuna and blue cheese, are not hard to spot and avoid. Wines are thoughtfully grouped according to style and also receive singular descriptions for no-brainer ordering. But it’s the equally user-friendly and varied saké list that’s most impressive.